Sarah Jessica Parker and her infamous, sexually savvy trio stepped out of their comfort and couture zone of New York and opted for camels over cabs and riads in place of lofts. Leaving behind what has often been called “Sex in the City’s” fifth character, they have recast the urban apple with the seductive Moroccan landscape. Like New York, Morocco is screen savvy and has long been a star in her own right.
The plot lines of SITC may be held tightly under wraps, but it is no secret that Morocco is once again ready for its cinematic close up. On screen or in person, this Old World wonder is a timeless beauty worthy of a revisit or a first plunge in.
An Old World Wonder
As we stepped off the plane in Marrakech, the heat was so dense you could actually see it. Midday June in Marrakech, the weather is relentless, unapologetic and perfect. Welcoming our travel weary crew was the ever-dapper Fabrizio Ruspoli, the Italian-French aristocrat and proprietor of our first Moroccan palace, La Maison Arabe.
I couldn’t imagine a better welcome to the country. The cool, crisp wrinkle free Fabrizio and Juan scurried us through customs, bags and had us whisked away effortlessly to Fabrizio’s riad, just outside of Marrakech’s medina.
What is common in Morocco, similar to New Orleans French Quarter, you don’t show your wares. The big surprise comes once inside. You would almost miss the subtle doors of this urban oasis. Yet once inside, like Alice, you fall in to a rich and sensuous Wonderland.
Maison Arabe was like no other place I had ever seen, yet just as I would imagine. Two French women initially owned the recently renovated riad in 1946. It is rich in history with its share of cinematic stars, aristocrats and tastemakers who have made their mark in the bar and lounge. If privy to a private moment with Fabrizio he will treat you to a tour divulging the decadent morsels of Elizabeth Taylor’s favorite corner in the bar or Princess Grace’s place.
A Bit of Bliss
After a welcoming Moroccan tea, a definitive ritual, we slipped in to Maison Arabe’s basement spa for a traditional hammam. This practice dates back to the Arabs in the 7th century and to this day is referred to as “the silent doctor.” After a scrub, steam and a wrap I fell in to the deepest of sleeps during my massage. It definitely healed what ailed me. If our schedule weren’t chock a block, I would have happily played queen for the day and simply relaxed in my expansive suite. It’s an evocative spot, pitch perfect for reflection or romance.
Flower Power
We didn’t skip a beat with a carriage ride to Jardin Majorelle, the garden property of French painter Jacques Majorelle. The late Yves Saint Laurent and his partner Pierre Berge acquired the property and restored it to its current state of beauty in 1980. True to YSL’s form this is not your average garden party as plants from five continents are present.
An Islamic art museum is on site housing the works of Majorelle alongside artifacts from Maghreb, Orient, Africa and Asia. If you like to take your art with you, the shop next door is filled with one off pieces of jewelry and clothing designed by YSL’S previous designer who mixes French couture with local Moroccan craft and culture. The end result is exquisite, head turning couture. I imagine it was a Pat Field’s favorite.
Pretty as a Picture
Fabrizio and Juan the consummate hosts walked us through the world famous Marrakech medina. As much as I’m a wanderer by nature, we were encouraged to stick with our crew, as it’s wonderfully overwhelming and easy to get lost.
The medina is a coffee table book waiting to happen. If you love life behind the lense, this is your perfect canvas. Be prepared with small coins in your pocket as the locally captured faces come with a price. If you have a great zoom, even better as the best shots are caught naturally in the act, off the cuff and don’t involve monetary entanglements. Expect to haggle in stalls, as you will be sized up before a price is randomly released. Like many markets, respect and a fair price are given with a bit of dramatic haggling. Get your game face on.
Local Theatrics
Aside from spices, rugs and crafts, the real drama was caught outside the stalls in the open medina. It’s an Old World market full of drama and local theatrics from snake charmers to henna hand painters, men with monkeys and story tellers. Again, if captured on film, it all comes with a price. So, if someone hands you a monkey, puts one on your head and another on your shoulder and takes your camera to take your picture, you must dole out the dollars to get your own camera back. It all happens so fast. So be prepared.
The urban curtain closed with the final act, a sunset drink on the tip top of a hotel hugging the medina. Overlooking the Moroccan madness and its circus like stage will have you on your feet, cheering on this world-class performance.
Hot! Hot! Hot!
Local culinary classes were high on the schedule. We enjoyed a welcome dinner in a classic Moroccan tent at The Country Club, Maison Arab’s off site locale for culinary lessons, dinner and pool parties. We then returned in the daylight to try our hand with the local cuisine.
Maison Arabe is internationally known for their cooking classes. So carve out a day for a class conducted by a dada, a traditional Moroccan chef. In our morning class we prepared our own Msemen Moroccan, Chicken Tangine and Fruit Pastilla before enjoying the fruits of our labors by lunch.
The following day we flexed our culinary muscles again with a local Moroccan woman at Jnane Tamsna (www.jnanatamsna.com), a good half hour away from city center. They too have series of ongoing classes conducted in an outside kitchen. The tucked away property is dotted with small houses throughout the garden. Our Pear Tar Tan was the winning dish paired with local Moroccan wines. Enjoyed on the secluded patio, it was a lovely lunch and quite the accomplishment.
A Magic Carpet Ride
The 30’s styled Bar at Maison Arabe is a destination unto itself. The impassioned Rashid, Maison Arabe’s head bartender infuses local culture, cuisine and an abundance of spices in to his handcrafted cocktails. If you want to forget the evening before, you can start each day anew as Rashid presents a new list of 12 cocktails each day.
Try the Morrocito, a Moroccan Mojito made with ginger and local Moroccan liqueur. If you’re a cocktail geek that likes splash of culture over ice, belly up to the bar.
After a few liquid lovelies we went to the other side of the medina where Andrea Kolb, the proprietor of Ana Yela, met us. It was a rich mix of twist and turns until we finally found her riad. It looked like a random door, but once in, a whole other story was unveiled.
Andrea and her now husband, German telecom businessman Bernd Kolb found this place in a state of disrepair. They have since restored it back to a state and a place unlike any other. Their inner sanctuary is extremely private with five romantic rooms. With its hued lighting, it’s pitch perfect for seduction.
We had a spirited dinner with live performers on the rooftop overlooking the medina. After a few wines, I was left basking in the moonlight where I waited for a magic carpet to fly by and take me away. It was that convincing.
