The modern state of Israel has a long and ancient history in winemaking. Wine has been in and out of fashion and favor. In Biblical times it was referred to as the fruit of the vine, enjoyed by Jesus and a few famous friends. It was ruled out during the Islamic conquest, brought back with Christian crusaders, out again, in again, yada, yada. If you want to learn about Israeli history, follow the Biblical vine.
During Roman Times the wines of Israel were exported to Rome. Then the indigenous grape varieties were virtually wiped out under Islamic rule. A rabbi in the early 19th century resurrected a short-lived modern winery, which didn’t last long. Just leave it to a French man to remedy the situation and finally bring it back in fashion. French Baron Edmond de Rothschild of the Bordeaux estate, Château Lafite-Rothschild Rotcshild brought over French varietals in the late 19th century and planted them in Israel’s Carmel Mountains.
The ancient art was resurrected, but it was years before it was refined. Kosher wines were long known for quantity not quality. Manishevitz anyone? One did not sip for the love of the liquid luminary. It was about keeping Kosher. That has seriously changed in recent years. This sophisticated side of this modern wine phenomena started up again as recently as the early 1990’s with boutique and large-scale wineries in Israel garnering international awards.
There are now six prominent wine regions throughout a country the size of New Jersey. There is a wide range of production from boutique to Titanic wineries producing as many as 10 million bottles per year. This is no shrinking industry. Carmel Winery, Domaine de Castel and Golan Winery make up approximately 80% of the business. Expect major global expansion in the coming years due to this change and the growing global demand. Fear not the kosher, whether you keep it or not.
One smaller, yet important Israelis winery to note is Tishbi Vineyards in the Carmel Mountains. They’re producing French style Kosher wines under Golan Tishbi, fifth generation winemaker. The irreverent and impassioned Golan studied wine at famed Hawkes Bay University in New Zealand. This outside influence is not uncommon as the Australian, California and French influence in Israel in recent years is largely responsible for this recent change and expansion.
Golan of Tishbi Winery’s got the French influence and passion, yet the Kiwi sensibility that keeps him from being too precious about the process. For him it’s about making this old world wonder, the wine, yet keeping it accessible to both his local and his global patrons. Tishbi is one of the wineries behind the recent boom of agri-tourism in Israel, which means there is more to do than buy a bottle. Get your tour and your taste on while enjoying some of their home baked breads, cheeses and preserves in their casual homespun restaurant and outdoor patio. The small bites and perfect pairings are so good; you will want to and probably will slap someone.
